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Sykes Sickle - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
standard rack; include a 3.5 friend for the crux
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

This is a spectacular 8 pitch route which takes a direct line up the center of the face. The obvious feature to aim for is the huge arcing corner/roof (the Sickle) near the top. Begin directly below this in a left-facing corner. 2 pitches (or one long one) of 5.7 to a large grassy terrace. Continue with 5.7 friction and face moves for 2 more pitches to a good ledge. The wall steepens to vertical here; climb 5.6 flakes on the left or the 5.7 corner system on the right. Both are outstanding, and gain the bottom of the Sickle feature. Pitch six (also 5.7) climbs the Sickle corner itself, then, before the Sickle becomes a roof, makes a devious traverse out on the face to a belay ledge below a notch in the large roof. P7 is the crux, a unique, intimidating pitch with phenomenal climbing. Climb 5.9 cracks into the notch (small gear and pins), then stem and chimney to the lip and pull over (3.5 friend). 5.9 or 9+. Continue with excellent crack climbing to a belay near some wedged blocks. Pitch 8 is the psychological crux, especially if it is storming or threatening. Traverse straight right for 40 feet with no pro (5.7+) to a recently replaced, but hard-to-spot bolt. Then go up and right on easier ground to 3rd-class terrain. Reaching the summit involves several hundred feet of scrambling, but it is spectacular, with a view down the entire face, and should not be missed if weather permits. The descent, however, starts from where the route ends, and contours south-west across steep scree and slabs--be very careful of getting cliffed out. Once around the cliffs, head back north around to the base of the NE face.

Submitted by: takeme on 2005-04-28
Views: 1296
Route ID: 26733

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8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cracklover on 2012-06-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route

Having led both of them, I found the 30 feet of unprotected 5.9 slab climbing on P2/3 way harder than the "crux" pitch.

Added: 2012-06-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dudescientist on 2006-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great postion..exposure is nice too

Great crux. Fun route

Added: 2007-05-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 2000-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice climax

The crux pitch on this route is spectacular. The rest is sort of so-so, but Spearhead is such a grand hunk of rock maybe it doesn't matter.

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dobbsboy on 2006-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-07-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: wannabe on 2005-08-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

The traverse on the last pitch looked a little better about 6 feet above the metioned bolt. It has a natural rib running of to the right for good crimp holds, but no pro. We did it above the bolt.

Witnessed by: mingleefu
Added: 2005-08-13

... Read all 8 ascent notes