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The Barb - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
standard rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

This route takes beautiful thin cracks on perfect rock up the Barb Flake, a huge semi-detached pillar on the right side of the wall. Begin on the right side of the wall with an obvious left-facing corner (5.7). Move the belay about 100 feet left on the large ledge. Then climb straight up on fun flakes and face into aleft-curving ramp/slot. While only 5.4, this pitch is loads of fun. The next pitch ascends either of 2 corners left of the belay (5.6). P4 climbs a very cool left-leaning, sustained 5.9 thin crack. Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined with a 60-meter rope. P5 continues left, then straight up over a small roof, up a splitter thin-hands crack, and further up a stellar left-facing corner to your choice of hanging belays. Pitch 6 is the crux: continue up the corner, and be on the lookout for a thin, right-diagnaling crack. Use an inobvious sequence to gain the crack, which had a fixed pin at the crux as of 9/01. Small wires will help sew things up. Belay on the right margin of the Barb pillar. Traverse right for pitches 7 and 8, which are the bonus: you get to do the best 2 pitches of the North Ridge route to finish up (5.6). I highly recommend scrambling to the summit, which is one of the wildest in the Park. Descend from either the summit, or where the route ends, by contouring SW across scree and slabs, avoiding the temptation to go straight down which will get you cliffed without any good rap anchors. Once below the cliffs, traverse around the base of the route.

Submitted by: takeme on 2005-04-28
Views: 769
Route ID: 45604

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-07-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Really Fun

This is a great climb, the approach is a bit of a pain, especially in the dark but the climbing makes up for it. Comparing it to the crux of Flying Buttress Direct I'd say this is the same difficulty but far less sustained. It's like two or three moves protected by a good pin at the time that could be backed up if desired. I would belay lower than the pin. It sucks but it's better than doing some weird up and down stuff.

Added: 2011-07-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pt on 2008-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome

One of the best 5.10 Alpine routes in the park

Added: 2008-07-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: furrymurry on 2007-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The Barb with Taylor

Got a bivy permit, spent the night and climbed it the next day. Looked like there might be a rap descent. If I went back would prefer to linkup at least two routes. Great fun!

Added: 2007-08-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Happy on 2006-06-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route - not too committing

I think the pin was still there. I seem to remember a bolt, as well (I'm recording this a year later). The crux was very short, and you're on a level with your belayer. After the crux pitch, we traversed around to the back side (North ridge?) b/c I wasn't sure if we were on a dead end.

Added: 2007-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: takeme on 2001-09-30 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A very late season ascent, but a beautiful day with the route all to ourselves. Dave did a nice job leading the crux and I managed to follow clean. It is hard but short and would be easy to aid--if you are a solid 5.9 leader, do not shy away from this great route.

Witnessed by: Dave Ellis
Added: 2001-09-30