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South Face III 5.8 - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock
standard rack & a 60m rope shortens the rappells
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8 V0 WI1 A0 M1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.29/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.43/5

Description:

The first half of the route follows a chimney system in the middle of the south face, ending one pitch above the Second Terrace. It then tends right and ascends teh southeast corner of the spire.

Submitted by: soccer_fan on 2004-07-14
Views: 1194
Route ID: 55936

13 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 13 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2013-06-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent Alpine Route

Really fun, pretty casual. Made the approach in 2 hours, climbed the route in five hours. I recommend bringing two 60's as we used a 50M tagline and that proved to cause some slight difficulties in the descent. It can be done but it doesn't make it easier. Lots of good pitches and a great summit. The altitude makes it feel a little hard for a 5.8

Added: 2013-06-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: 5starclimbs on 2012-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 2nd day

w/ Justin Caggiano

Added: 2012-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: 3cclimber on 2009-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun

good climb with a good freind two ropes are very nice.

Added: 2010-03-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: diggler on 2009-08-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars awesome climb

One of the best climbs I've done. Approach is 4.5 miles, straightforward, & by & large mellow (don't believe any horror stories). If you look at the map (most label the second lake as Sky Pond, so I don't understand any confusion here), it should be obvious (also it is completely obvious where the formation is- once you get to Sky Pond, the view is exactly the one shown in every guidebook).

First 2 pitches (straight up the most obvious chimney system I've ever seen) are straightforward, easy 5th. Then the climbing gets fun!

I found the crux to be burly for a 5.8, but the pro' is bomber, so go for it!

Remainder of climb is highly enjoyable. Second (?) pitch above the ledge directly above the crux pitch requires some route-finding, but if you follow the chalk, fixed pieces, & the easiest line, it's not too bad- just be mindful of rope drag.

Summit is perhaps the most outrageous I've ever been on- extremely invogorating!

We only had one rope for the rappels, which made the descent a bit more tedious than I was hoping for, but you CAN get down with 1 60 (though 2 would definitely make it easier- wish that rap' stations accomodated those with 1 rope better; the actual climb is fine to do with just one 60)- it just takes some more hunting around/some easy downclimbing.

Excellent climb, amazing formation & rock, great pro. A classic, just like Steck & Roper called it.

Added: 2009-09-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: benanderson04 on 2009-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great

made the hike in in a little under two hours, climbing the route with about 6 other party's (really fun) and made the descent without incident. one lone day for sure but very fun. All info from "rock climb colorado" was accurate with common sense. Go have fun!

Added: 2009-08-21

... Read all 13 ascent notes