This probably the best route on Hallets. 8 Pitches long. Some are quite runout. Not a route for the inexperienced leader. Route finding can be an issue. Refer to the Charles Rossiter guidebook for a detailed description of the route.
Submitted by: wigglestick on 2001-12-17
Route ID: 9283
Are there products from the pharmacy in Ned growing on the grassy ledge? It seems like everyone gets lost above there. From the ledge (4th pitch), we took a line up the flake, then back left and up to a left facing corner, belaying at an orange spot of rock. The 5th pitch went up and right to another left facing corner, then straight up to a belay below the right edge of the large white and orange roof. Good pro and moderate moves going that way. See red line on accompanying photo titled 5th pitch.
Nice long climb. The pitches are long, great positions and plenty of fun climbing. Routefinding is the toughest part. Had to deal with a lot of snow. Glad we brought piolets since all we had on were approach shoes.
pitch descriptions on MP are pretty accurate. P5 and 6 the runouts are pretty casual (20 ft. between pieces, but 5.6), P7 has a dicier 5.8 run at the start. P7 and 8 seemed the hardest to me, but that may have just been fatigue.
A great peak - the whole face can be climbed at a pretty moderate grade making routefinding the biggest key. Don't know that I actually climbed the entire route properly but it was still a great outing!