Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : High Peaks : Rocky Mountain National Park : Longs Peak : Ariana
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Ariana - 5.12a
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Rock
double cams to a 2.5 friend seemed helpful. Nothing larger than a #3 friend is needed.
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Description:
A spectacular grade IV route on the extreme left side of the Diamond--basically 5 feet away from the edge of the Obelisk corner, it seems even more exposed than your average Yellow Wall area route. Start just to the right of Pervertical. 5.11a face past 3 new bolts leads to some 5.10 crack climbing, and, after 200 feet, the top of the "Mitten" flake. (You can step left into Pervertical 1/2 way up in order to avoid a long section of vegetated crack). P2 climbs for 200 more feet of fun, juggy 5.9+ up the steep crack/corner system. P3 is the crux: climb up and step left (Pervertical's crux goes straight up here) into a thin, offset finger crack which can be liebacked. No move is 5.12 but a long stretch with no rests creates the requisite pump. After a rest, 5.11- climbing leads to a belay out right shared with Pervertical (100ft). P4 is an amazing, long lead up the 5.11c crack with mostly thin hands and fingers, to the beautiful Obelisk ledge. P5 follows the final 5.9 of Pervertical off the right end of the ledge, 150' to Table Ledge. Go right to the rappels or left to upper Kieners.
Submitted by: takeme on 2005-07-30
Views: 252
Route ID: 38560
2 Ascents Recorded
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| Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Amazing route...
I had previously onsighted the first pitch as a part of the Obelisk, so I followed that cleanly NBD. Flashed the 12a pitch following, and then led the 11c pitch. I made it through the crux about 115 feet out, and then fought valiantly to stay on on the sustained 11- jams... After 5 minutes of ripping open the backs of my hands like it was my first day at the Creek, and then 2 minutes of screaming in defiance, I melted off. We called SAR but they won't initiate a rescue for exploded forearms, go figure. I was on my own. After using my nut tool to remove my flexor muscles (and that funky jamming muscle by your thumb that always cramps up) and throw them down to Broadway, I was able to climb the rest of the way to the anchor without falling using only my feet and chin. Amazing climb -- all in all one rest on the rope for my first Diamond 5.12... not bad. Sorry about the bloody flesh down on Broadway.
Added: 2007-07-31
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Ascent Note
Amazing route! Possibly my favorite Diamond route. Luna led the crux pitch in fine style and I managed to flash it on TR. I put everything I had into it, though, and about 1/2 way through leading the 5.11c pitch, I bonked and had to french free through the hardest sections. Still a great day though. Luna put on an awesome performance and onsighted the whole thing!
Witnessed by: Luna Kyly
Added: 2005-07-18
Added: 2005-07-18
