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Directissima - 5.10b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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standard rack to a #4 friend; could include a #4 camalot as well
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This is a very steep and excellent route on Chasm View Wall, which is 600-700' and sits down and right from the Diamond. It is often mentioned as a good stepping-stone to the Casual Route, and while it is shorter and less committing, I actually felt it was a good deal harder. The squeeze chimney in particular is much harder than its counterpart on the Casual's crux pitch. Directissima is the most obvious route in this area, a plumb-line crack system up the entire wall. Begin by scrambling 4th/easy 5th for several hundred feet (rope?) until below the obvious corner system. P1 actually offers several corners which merge into the same system. All are in the 5.8-9 range, but beware of the right-most which turns to thin, hard 5.10 as it continues into the second pitch. P2 continues into the main corner, also 5.9. Belay below an overhanging flake. P3 is the route's physical crux: cool 5.9 moves over/through the flake, followed by a tight squeeze, and a wide fist crack (#4 friend)--5.9+. Continue with 50 feet of easier but steep climbing, and belay 20' shy of a roof. P4: continue to the roof, place some good gear, then step left (major exposure!) and tackle the crux 5.10- seam above (rp placement). Continue with steep 5.9 hands to offwidth--a thoroughly spectacular pitch! Belay on the ridge leading down from Longs to Lady Washington. Descend the ridge to a 4th class downclimb, which leads to a ledge that takes you back to your packs (make sure to check this out while hiking up in the morning). IF you miss this, take the more obvious camel gully, which will make for a longer uphill hike to get back to the base.

Submitted by: takeme on 2003-12-11
Views: 1347
Route ID: 45601

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: suprasoup on 2009-08-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars AWESOME

Wow! what a fun route! Each pitch was memorable. P3 has 3 fixed purple Camalots in it.

Added: 2009-08-28

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1994-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sweet

This was my second alpine route...I remember the colors in the cirque seeming off because I was so tired. Back then we carried too much crap up (and we weren't strong enough to boot). Stellar route, though.

Added: 2007-04-11

Onsight Onsight ascent by: takeme on 2001-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Dave dropped our #4 camalot while following the 2nd pitch. Because of this, he took a 20 footer while leading the burly 3rd pitch, but he went back up and finished it. The last pitch was one of the most spectacular leads of my life. Dave stashed a can of Guiness at the base of the route for post-climb celebratory purposes, but the marmots managed to drag it out and drink it somehow!? I guess they saw his fall and felt that he didn't deserve a beer, but I felt otherwise 'cause I was sure glad not to lead that pitch.

Witnessed by: Dave Ellis
Added: 2001-07-10