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Southwest Chimney - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
Stoppers, aliens from green to orange, camalots to #3 with an extra 1 and 2 sized piece to sew it up
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5

Description:

This climbs the far right side of the south face before turning the corner. Not as loose as it is reputed to be, but still objectively a bit more serious than the rating would imply.

P1: Climb up and around a dihedral/chimney system 140' to a fixed anchor in a notch. 5.8R

From the notch, climb third class for 160' up and left to the base of the summit tower. There is a lot of exposure and this is appallingly loose, so be very careful and consider roping up.

P2: Pull over an overhang beneath an obvious ramp 5.8 Continue right up the ramp, and then left up another ramp. At the end of this ramp, climb up to the anchor. 140', mostly 5.6 with a 5.8 start.

Another 100' of exposed and loose 3rd class scrambling brings you to the summit pinnacle and register.

To descend, rap the two technical pitches(we used two ropes for each, not sure if you can get down with one rope or not) and downclimb the third class sections carefully.

Do not climb this below another party!

Submitted by: atg200 on 2003-09-03
Views: 482
Route ID: 39859

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3 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: MJCMAJIC on 2009-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice views

This is a climb that has a lot of loose rock and a lot of walking. I was tired when I did it. The views are incredible but the best part of this climb was the Wies Spaden hot tub afterwords.

Added: 2010-08-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: skibabeage on 2003-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Witnessed by: atg200
Added: 2003-09-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: atg200 on 2003-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2003-08-30