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North Pillar - 5.8

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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Standard trad rack plus aliens to yellow (or red)
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Description:

Route ascends the northern pillar on the northeast face of Crestone Peak. Hike to the upper south colony lakes basin and the pillar is almost all the way up the basin just left of the basin’s “north couloir” (which is the steep couloir furthest to the left of the north cirque). Climb the east face near the edge between the east and north faces. There is tricky protection and some run out sections; and since this route is NE facing and is less traveled than the Ellingwood Aręte there can be less than solid rock in the north face. The specifics: Climb on the east face for approximately 4-6 pitches (depending on rope length and belay points) of up to 5.7. For the 5.8+ crux pitch, ascend from a ledge up and to the left to climb a small poorly protected overhang. Then do a rising traverse to the right (back to the edge). From here a couple easier pitches will take you to the top of the pillar. From here follow the North Buttress route to the east summit of Crestone Peak and then about 250’ of sketchy 4th class down climbing and then back up to the main summit.

Submitted by: sharpie on 2004-07-12
Views: 858
Route ID: 55811