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Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : North Central Range : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : The Standard Route or Trooper Traverse

The Standard Route or Trooper Traverse - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

five-pitch route climbed as early as the 1940's by the 10th Mountain Division. Start by big tree at base of Trail Head Wall. Scramble ledges to base of left-leaning dihedral. P1: Climb past 2 pitons to good ledge w/2 bolt anchor under a roof. P2: Turn the roof on the right (crux) then follow dihedral, look for anchor bolts shared w/ sport climb ("Otis," 11a) P3: follow dihedral to big ledge w/anchors. P4: Traverse the ledge to base of big left-facing dihedral. P5: Finish in the big dihedral combining overhanging fist-jams w/good feet (unless it's hailing by then) for an excellent finish. 60-meter ropes can just squeeze the descent into 2 raps.

Submitted by: leinosaur on 2005-07-10
Views: 532
Route ID: 67942

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: whui1025 on 2011-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Guidebook description maybe a little outdated

The guidebook says the crus is leaving P1 anchor and climb over the roof. It is not the crux though it is solid 5.8. P5 is actually is hardest--of cause there are several variations for P5. Ours is to following the right-facing dihedral straight up to the rap anchor.

Added: 2011-07-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: theresister on 2011-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice strong substained 5.8 route

Three of us on half ropes started at 10AM (late) and made it up 5 pitches to the big ledge on this great route. Longest route for me. We made it down in 3 raps and had time to do another pitch before the rain and hail shut us down for the day.

Added: 2011-07-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: virginia_alpinist on 2005-08-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars a

a

Added: 2007-01-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: berkly on 2005-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

After cruising up the first two pitches early in the day, the rain came and we bailed. After the sun came back out, we were on it again. Roof on the 2nd pitch was exciting and the bulges, face/arete climbing on the 3rd pitch was very fun. 5th pitch was a good looking dihedral crack that looked fun and was until I was running it out, making moderate moves way above pro. Sustained 5.8 pitch took longer than expected and the hail started just as I topped out. On the rap down, I took off the rap lines and traversed unnattached on sloping icy/wet ledge to the anchors, most trying moment ever.

Added: 2005-06-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leinosaur on 2005-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

first big multi-pitch tradventure ever, rapped after it rained on our 2nd pitch but we went back for more and didn't get caught by rain, hail & lightnight 'til Chris was done with 5th & last pitch - so I hangdogged it in the hail & we rapped onto icy ledges after a bit of a wet wait under a roof there. Good times.

Witnessed by: berkly
Added: 2005-06-24