Neurosurgeon climbs the stellar fingercrack on the far right side of the 'central' River Wall (after the bouldering approach in from right), just right of the steep 'slab' Le Diamant E'ternal. The only reason this climb doesn't receive three stars in my book is the scary finishing options. One must either climb difficult to protect direct 5.11 R finish or move right around the arete as the crack fades in and out and finish on loose scary 5.9 R climbing. The lower portion of the climb, the meat of it, is beautiful and can be worth the scare above, or better yet TR the line. Starts with stellar fingerlocks. Just before the roof the crack widens to off-fingers and thin hands (cruxy). Polish off the roof above and climb several body lengths of pumpy crack. On the lead one must choose here as the crack fades in and out to climb right to the arete and up (5.9 R) or directly up the 5.11 (R) finish. A TR will follow the 5.11 finish.
Submitted by: bluesky on 2002-10-31
Route ID: 26554