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Pocket Full of Cryptonite - 5.12a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Andy Brown 1994
Rock (Sport)
3 bolts - 2 bolt anchor (Shared with others on the Dinosaur's Foot). This was originally noted in the Gillett guidebook as having 4 bolts. Now, the first bolt is been removed and a bolt sleeve remains.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This route is located just uphill from "Index/Middle/Heel Toe" and is found on a large detached pillar/fin. This is the route directly under the anchor at the top right of the Fin. You will want to stick clip the first bolt, as this is where the business is located. The hard climbing starts from the ground up, grab the large open handed ledge and go up and left to a good crimp, From here paste your feet up and look for a crimp by the bolt, just below. You will also have another crimp just to the right of the bolt. The feet are fairly tricky and the crimps will be a little sharp from here on, climb on small feet and mini crimps to the second bolt, long reach up and left to clip the second bolt, from here head a little right gaining some better holds and onward to the 3rd bolt. Once at the 3rd bolt the climbing eases considerably. A great route, although short, it will definitely make you think and force you to crimp down hard !! Beauty line, too bad so short.

Submitted by: bradlmd on 2010-11-04
Views: 489
Route ID: 107187

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bradlmd on 2010-11-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Pocket Full of Cryptonite

Nice route, very crimpy with micro feet.

Added: 2010-11-04