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North Face - Grade III - 5.7

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Trad gear. Suggested rack of cams up to 3 in., one set of nuts and 10-14 slings.
Consensus Ratings
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This route follows the large, diagonal ledge system filled with trees that slices the north face almost in two. Start on black lichen colored slabs with one rusted piton. Continue through standing pines to the large, grassy diagonal ledge. Either simul-climb or procede unroped up several hundred feet of 3rd-4th class scrambling through trees and rock. The ledge system then terminates and the large notch that cleaves into the summit ridge is apparant. This notch gulley has a 5.5 chimney at the bottom. Climb the chimney and scramble either unroped or with short belays up two or three more pitches. You will end up at the large ledge below the 5.7 crux pitch, which are twin cracks just off the ledge to the far right. You need to step off the ledge about three feet to get into the crack system. 150 ft. of high quality rock is the highlight of the climb. At the top of the 5.7, you will need to go left about 75 ft. to access a 5.4 chimney and face climb to the summit. Avoid the closer chimney with a single rusted piton below an overhanging fist crack if you want to stay under 5.7. The 5.4 is a full rope length for a 60m cord. Descend via 4th class scrambling via the route "Solo Flight." This route follows the summit knife edge ridgeline to the left and continues down to a rock cairn marked path. Don't descend too soon, as you will be deposited in a large gulley filled with loose rock. If you DO end up here, you can rappel the entire gulley with a 60m rope in about 6 rappels, but the rockfall is quite hazardous. Ancient pitons are some of the parts of your rap anchors.

Submitted by: timstich on 2004-09-08
Views: 728
Route ID: 57658

2 Ascents Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnhemlock on 2005-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

We covered the first 8 pitches in 90 minutes, then waited another 90 minutes for parties in front of us to do the nice crux pitch. Should've got out of bed earlier, I guess. The last two pitches and the summit are great, the rest is not particularly memorable - 3rd and 4th class groveling with a couple of short chimneys.

Pay attention to the descent instructions and do not descend early, lest you end up ascending an unpleasant gully to regain Solo Flight.

Added: 2005-09-04

Onsight Onsight ascent by: timstich on 2004-08-07 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

The crux pitch is very nice. If you want a mountaineering experience scrambling up grassy ledges with a few actual rock pitches and a great knife-edge summit, this is for you.

Witnessed by: tracey roach
Added: 2004-08-07