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Kieners -

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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Small trad tack, 2-3 ice screws, crampons and ice tools. If you only take 1 rope, you must summit
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III, 5.4, or M2, snow and ice on the approach, 2000ft climb, with 4 mile hike in. This is the easiest line up the east face of Longs, and the best mountaineering route in Colorado, hands down. Take the trail to chasm lake, hike around the north side of the lake and up to the great face. Off to the left is a wide, 900 ft snow/ice ramp called Lambís slide. After ascending Lambís slide for about 800 ft, turn north, (right) and scramble up and across to broadway. Broadway is the ledge that splits the east face into its lower and upper sections, A very exposed traverse of about 1,000 ft will gain you the notch coular, on the south edge of the diamond. Ascend this for 50 ft, (ice or snow) then pull onto the rock on the right side of this gully. This (approach) is probably the most dangerous part of the route, be careful, a few people have fallen here, down 800 ft of blank, vertical rock to their deaths. Traverse the rock on a short ramp, and start of the section called, kienerís chimneys (4th cl-5.5 of so) . The exact route is a little obscure, and just remember to go up and to the right to avoid getting stuck of the blank walls of notch couloir. After about 3 pitches, the angle lets off. scramble up and right of a rock tower, were the slope becomes a gully, and up that (600 ft). Now you must find the weakness between upper Kiener's and the eastern summit slopes of Longs peak. Find a level spot at the base of a steep wall with good, horizontal ledges and hand cracks. Traverse these ledges around an exposed step (the diamond step around) and find your self on the summit slopes. 200 ft of scrambling puts you on top. The best decent is down the north face, rapping the large, old, but safe iron bolts, 2-3 raps with 2 ropes, 3-4 raps with 1 rope.

Submitted by: kricir on 2005-10-28
Views: 1121
Route ID: 71293

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3 Ascents Recorded

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Red Point Red Point ascent by: amason on 2006-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note


Witnessed by: solo foster and slopr
Added: 2006-09-23

Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kricir on 2005-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Best climb of my life so far. Even though we got compleatly lost, half of our belay pulled out on a fall, and our rope got stuck trying to rap to get back on route. For traning we soloed the N.face in 6hrs, car to car, but keiners required 16 hrs, fighting the whole way

Added: 2005-10-09

Red Point Red Point ascent by: csproul on 1997-10-14 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Added: 1997-10-14