Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : Northern Colorado : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Grapevine

Grapevine - 5.8

Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)

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First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

standard rack, #4 camalot

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.8
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

This probably isn't quite as good as Mainliner or Sidetrack, but it's steep, varied, and has one of the best (and most enjoyable) chimneys I've ever done. Start to the left of Sidetrack, at a discontinuous finger crack (this is just before the giant Eumenides dihedral). This crack is 5.8+ and may be the crux of the route. Continue on steep highly featured rock to a small ledge below an offwidth crack. P2-climb the 5.8 offwidth, and continue into the "splitter" 5.6 chimney, which is secure and even protects well. P3--climb straight up (5.9+ R), or head down and left, then back up above the belay (easy). Either way, continue with steep 5.7/8 cracks to a belay below an large, overhanging left-facing corner. P4--climb the corner (5.8+) with great hand jams and stems, then up and right on easier rock. From here, do a short 5.6 chimney pitch up and right to finish and gain access to the descent, or continue to the summit with a couple hundred feet of easy 5th class.

Submitted by: takeme on 2004-02-11
Views: 618
Route ID: 48516

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