Spectacular climbing! Start at an open book and crack left of the Guillotine and follow the crack system up, moving left onto the face after pitch one and heading for two facing dihedrals. The crux is pitch 3, with 5.9 stemming and finger/offwidth crack. The rest of the climb is fun and sustained 5.7-5.8. Five pitches total, sustained vertical with great exposure and fantastic views of RMNP high country and Estes Park. A great outing.
Submitted by: bradhill on 2002-06-03
Route ID: 18176
I did this one with "Twinkle Toes" Tom R. We alternated leads with the first pitch going to him. Overall, this is 5.fun climbing. The only tricky part was figuring out the stem box. Everything else was fun and non-threatening. Tons of stopper placements. We skipped the first rappel on the saddle descent route. The down climbing was slightly sketchy. Otherwise no problem. I was happy to find my pb&j sandwich intact in my backpack...I had hung it from the dead tree at the base!
Worth the hike. Good pro the whole way. Suggest small gear for the stem box, which seemed easy once we figured it out. Bulge above stem box seemed hardest - offwidth to sidepulling finger crack. Very nice but very slow team above us and so we ran out of water. We had 1 liter each, needed 2 in the August sun. Best suprise of the day - the slow team above us, offered us their last 1/2 cup of water - nice guys. We didn't take it since their leader was on the verge of passing out from dehydration.