Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
Slightly flaring hand crack. Standard Lumpy rack, nuts mixed cams etc.
Probably one of the most recognizable routes on the Book as it cuts through the arching roof just left of the Howling at the Moon Dihedral. Start about 15' left of said dihedral, jamming a 8+/9- flaring hand crack, to a set of bolts about 20' below the roof (there is also a pin immediately to the left of the bolts). Follow the thin crack (10a/b) to a short traverse to a giant bolt below the roof. Jam to the crack cutting through the back of the roof and out to the break in the roof. Make the move over the roof (crux, 10c) and belay here for good communication. For P3, follow the right arching layback crack (9+) to just below the cave. Pick your poison for the exit, but I suggest Cheap Date.
Pick an exit pitch (Cheap Date, Outlander, The Cave, etc.) and then take the descent chimneys to the east (low fifth class).
Submitted by: qlenae on 2008-07-10
Route ID: 72686