Fantastic varied 4 pitch route that has many exciting moments and achieves great position on the upper part of the Bookmark. Begin on the far right side of the Bookmark's west face in a left-angling wide crack. Climb out of the crack after 10 feet into a 5.8 finger crack which gains the actual ridge; continue up moderate ground to a belay below a bolt. P2 is exciting--clip the bolt and slab climb up and right (5.9) past a tcu placement to easier cracks and eventually a good belay ledge. Getting off route on this pitch is not recommended; a leader recently took an 80 footer! P3 is the jewel of the route. Climb into a hand crack on the right which leads to an alcove/roof. Turn the roof on the right and follow thin, intermittent cracks up the exposed ridge (5.9)until they die out at a blank headwall--then step right to a belay. P4 climbs the 5.9 bulge above and follows easier ground to the top.
Submitted by: takeme on 2005-04-24
Route ID: 65954
2nd pitch is not that bad. Clip the bolt, place a small cam then make a single tricky move to go right. 3rd pitch is the real business of the route. We went left under the roof here and it was intimidating (somewhat sketchy rock under roof). The climbing above stays sustained and in your face all the way to the belay. Wow!
I lead pitches 1 and 3. Pitch 1 - Can't miss the 5.7 angling crack, should actually start the climb about 1/3 from the start of the crack. Just climb 8ft or so from the ground and place a BD #3 and continue up the crack. Pitch 2 - should be strong/experienced at 5.9. A tcu placement is pretty easy about 3 or 5 feet after the bolt. Make sure you angle up and right on face moves, then make a nice reach for the 5.5 crack to the right of the face climbing. Pitch 3 - One of the best pitches at 5.9. Take the right crack and venture under the roof. Take the right side of the roof, which has a nice placement before pulling over on positive handholds. Then, continue in a easy 5.7 or 5.8 crack for 10 ft. Next, face climb for a short section (place pro before you start the face climbing) and come up to a 5.9 crack on the left side of the bulge. Take the crack(the crux) for 15ft or so, and end up at a nice belay ledge with several cracks for a good belay. Pitch 4 - Start with 15ft of sold 5.9 climbing with many placement options, then continue to easy spires on the backside of the bookmark formation. The rap bolts are located on the left back side - 2 bolts. Rap for a 90-100ft down semi - loose gully. Find a few rap slings and make another 75ft rap down a lower angled gully. You will end up at the beginning of the left book.