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Corner Pump Station - 5.11c

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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standard rack; extra #2 & #3 metolius can facilitate "plug 'n chug".
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


Incredible, steep and exposed. Certainly the best pitch of 5.11 that I've done on Lumpy Ridge. Climb the first pitch of either Perelandra (10a) or Howling (9+) and belay on top of the wedged block below Howling's roof. leave everything larger than #2.5 friend with your partner. Hand traverse right (exciting 10a) to a no hands rest. Overhanging jamming/stemming/liebacking up twin cracks (rated 11c) leads past a pin and good gear to easier but still pumpy climbing up a left-arcing corner. A second crux, rated 11a, comes where the corner straightens (and seams) out. This is an exciting pull on bad holds with the potential for a decent sized but quite safe fall. I found it more difficult that the lower crux but that may be due to the pump clock and the mental factor. Belay on a nice ledge and then continue up the corner/groove (5.9) to the Cave area. One can escape right here, but a more fitting finale would be the sustained 5.11 tips crack Final Chapter.

Submitted by: takeme on 2005-07-16
Views: 311
Route ID: 68085

1 Ascent Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: takeme on 2005-07-15 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I think this is the best 5.11 pitch I've done on Lumpy Ridge. Super steep, sustained, requires a variety of techniques, exposed, perfect rock, etc. I also found the upper crux to be the hardest part of the route. I had to go for it with everything I had up there, screaming out loud at myself to go for it (an extremely rare event for me).

Witnessed by: Pat Vernon
Added: 2005-07-15