Skip to Content

Corner Pump Station - 5.11c

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
standard rack; extra #2 & #3 metolius can facilitate "plug 'n chug".
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Incredible, steep and exposed. Certainly the best pitch of 5.11 that I've done on Lumpy Ridge. Climb the first pitch of either Perelandra (10a) or Howling (9+) and belay on top of the wedged block below Howling's roof. leave everything larger than #2.5 friend with your partner. Hand traverse right (exciting 10a) to a no hands rest. Overhanging jamming/stemming/liebacking up twin cracks (rated 11c) leads past a pin and good gear to easier but still pumpy climbing up a left-arcing corner. A second crux, rated 11a, comes where the corner straightens (and seams) out. This is an exciting pull on bad holds with the potential for a decent sized but quite safe fall. I found it more difficult that the lower crux but that may be due to the pump clock and the mental factor. Belay on a nice ledge and then continue up the corner/groove (5.9) to the Cave area. One can escape right here, but a more fitting finale would be the sustained 5.11 tips crack Final Chapter.

Submitted by: takeme on 2005-07-16
Views: 261
Route ID: 68085

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: takeme on 2005-07-15 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I think this is the best 5.11 pitch I've done on Lumpy Ridge. Super steep, sustained, requires a variety of techniques, exposed, perfect rock, etc. I also found the upper crux to be the hardest part of the route. I had to go for it with everything I had up there, screaming out loud at myself to go for it (an extremely rare event for me).

Witnessed by: Pat Vernon
Added: 2005-07-15