This was a great route, my leader almost climbed Loose J by accident, headed up the dihedral, said what the fuck, lowered off a red alien and a nut and found the correct traverse into the crack. (He did lower back down to get his gear when he got to the top.) Great finger/hand crack, easier than Loose Ends I thought. Took the 5.11c route, my leader aided it, and I tried to free climb it in between taking nuts out. Holy hard!!! I don't even want to know what it would be like to free that bad daddy.....probably have to go ahead and skip the gear to keep from loosing your fingertip jam.