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J Crack - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (18)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

The classic Lumpy finger crack! There is almost, always a line on this one!Pitch1: 5.6 start down and to the right, you will climb easy cracks(5.6) up and left belay at the ledge just before the traverse into the"J" crack.Pitch2: traverse left from the belay to gain the base of the crack.It is IMPORTANT that you place gear Before starting the face traverse! many people have taken serious falls when they did not! Once you have reached the crack enjoy the finger jams(5.9) until you reack 2 "pods" at a weird horizontal "dike". Pitch 3- decision time- you can either continue up the crack proper at 5.11c or traverse right at runout 5.9 face.Or (my preference) traverse left on 5.9+ face to gain a perfect hand crack. Regardless which option you take, you will climb straight up off the belay until the wall gets steep- this is where you must make your choice. Belay at the cave. Pitch4: choose a cave exit.

Submitted by: flamer on 2002-11-04
Views: 632
Route ID: 26761

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18 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: csproul on 2010-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Simply awesome crux pitch

a flaring finger crack, this was pretty painful for the feet in the shoes I was wearing. I thought this was pretty delicate and difficult for 5.9

Added: 2010-08-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 2001-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars No comment

No comment

Added: 2007-04-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: schveety on 2005-10-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This was a great route, my leader almost climbed Loose J by accident, headed up the dihedral, said what the fuck, lowered off a red alien and a nut and found the correct traverse into the crack. (He did lower back down to get his gear when he got to the top.) Great finger/hand crack, easier than Loose Ends I thought. Took the 5.11c route, my leader aided it, and I tried to free climb it in between taking nuts out. Holy hard!!! I don't even want to know what it would be like to free that bad daddy.....probably have to go ahead and skip the gear to keep from loosing your fingertip jam.

Added: 2005-10-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: briarpatch on 2005-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

started out on the right face a little too early on P3. got really sketched out looking at a 70+footer, by far the most freaked I've been on a climb. It all worked out.

Added: 2005-09-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: madflash on 2005-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-08-19

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