More of a mountaineering route than anything. You can hike up to the top of the West Gulley to access the 1st ledge or you can begin the route low in the gulley. My partner and I started low in the gulley. In doing this, we gained 2 more pitches of really mellow climbing. The key to reaching the notch on this climb is to find the grassy ledge that angels up and right. From the ledge, the Notch is pretty obvious. You have to do approximately 300' of mellow 3rd to 4th class scrambling to reach the final pitches of the route. Once on the grassy ledge, head up and right, aiming for the Notch. You'll see a wall in front of you. To complete the route via the Spiral Route, look left on the wall. You'll see another small grassy ledge. Chose the path of least resistance, if that's your thing and climb the remaining 5.4/5.5 pitch or 2 until you reach the notch. I'm hopefull that someone will post an accurate description of the descent from the Notch. Due to wet conditions, my partner and I opted to rap, taking the direct line down from the Notch. It was a mess. I'll just leave it at that. This route is probably the best intro to alpine routes that I could suggest. The climbing is very easy. The route can challenge a n00bs routefinding skills. Also, the opportunities to unrope and experience some fun 4th class is there as well. The hike in is a cakewalk since it is relatively flat in comparrison. My first choice for beginner alpine routes was always the N Ridge on Spearhead. Diverse in nature and mellow, this climb now takes 1st place in my book.
Submitted by: mother_sheep on 2005-08-22
Route ID: 69088