Awesome, but hard. P1: Easy rock to Middle Earth Ledge. P2: Easy rock to top of flake system, just right of the Eye of Mordor. P3: 5.7 flake to 5.9 dihedral. Crack in dihedral goes from 3" to 12" but is positive lieback. P4: Traverses left to flakes, up to bolt on face, up and slightly right on knobs to belay (5.10-). P5: Climb up on fragile flakes to good stance below roof. Pull roof with difficult mantle (10d). Traverse left at 5.10 and then up on easier ground to belay. P6: Up corner, step out of corner at a thin diagonal crack, and step up to a bolt (11d). Climb past bolts up to flake, over flake, and up to more bolts (5.11). Hanging belay at base of dihedral or link with next pitch. P7: Climb up dihedral and past pin and two bolts (10) to another dihedral. Tips liebacking up dihedral to belay (11). P8: Climb up pillar (5.8), clip bolt, climb past bolt and traverse left for 15' (5.10). Climb up RP seam (5.10) and then up hand crack to summit.
Submitted by: kansasclimber on 2006-05-08
Route ID: 76432