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South Face - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.88/5 Average Rating : 4.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (21)
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Rock
Stoppers, 1 set of cams to 3 inches
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

One of the 50 classics, and with good reason. Climbs the center of the south face above Sky Pond. Done in 7-8 pitches.
Pitch 1 Climb an easy pitch to a prominent chimney 5.4.
Pitch 2 Climb the chimney and belay on a chockstone 5.5
Pitch 3 Climb up and left out of the chimney to a huge ledge 5.7
Pitch 4 Climb up and right to a fixed piton belay on a small ramp 5.7
Pitch 5 Head right from the belay and climb up to a nice finger and hands crack. Continue up and right and belay as high as possible. 5.8 crux pitch
Pitch 6 - Climb the steep face above eventually heading left to the narrow edge. Belay high at a small ledge(the Pizza Pan ledge) 5.7
Pitch 7 - Climb directly up and then left to the edge. You can reach the summit in one long pitch. 5.7
The last two pitches are tricky to protect(though not dangerous). This beta is using 60 meter ropes-you may need to break it up more if using 50s, but you get great belay ledges at every pitch with 60s.
Descent - walk across the tiny summit ridge and rap from fixed anchors. 5 or 6 double rope raps get you to the ground-just be sure not to rap into the heinous loose gully. Also, don't even think about rapping into the Gash and walking around - no fun at all. This is a simply outstanding route.

Submitted by: fanederhand on 2003-09-15
Views: 1913
Route ID: 5731

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21 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cracklover on 2013-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route...

... in a beautiful location. This was my second attempt - got a pitch and a half away from the summit on my first attempt before being snowed off.

Added: 2013-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: andrea37 on 2010-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First Alpine Climb

We had a terrific time. We had never done the hike in before, so it took us 3.5 hours. Found some good beta from ShawnB, so I'm going to repeat it here for others that have never done it: The first pond you get to above the waterfalls is NOT Sky Pond, so don't waste your time looking around. Continue to the right of it and you will round a bend and Petit will immediately come into view to your right.
We had a 60m rope and combined P1&2, 3&4 and 5&6. They were rope stretchers but worth it. Exposure comes into play starting in P6 and continues till the summit. Super, super fun. We rapped down--the top 3 are rope eaters so be careful. Always look for the next set of rap rings down and climbers left.
2.5 hours for the hike out.
An unbelievable day--and we lucked out by having perfect weather--not a cloud in the sky from sun-up to sun-down. And only two other parties on the Petit. A perfect first Alpine experience!


Added: 2010-09-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2010-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars As good as good gets

The setting, exposure, and moves make this one very difficult to argue as a 50 Classic. Was able to do it in 5 pitches with a 60 meter doing 3 200 foot rope stretchers to the shoulder and then a 150 and 200 foot pitch. Probably would have been better to break up the last long pitch into two due to its wandering nature. Prepare to have fun.

Added: 2010-09-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: muttblood on 2009-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars amazing

my first alpine climb. the pizza pan ledge was spooky! i've never been so scared on a .7 in my life!

Added: 2009-12-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1994-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great intro to alpine climbing

This was my first alpine route in high school. We did it early season and there was a LOT of snow. Back then you couldn't rap the south face and going down the N side was quite a challenge. And then there was the post-holing...

Added: 2007-04-11

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