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Sharks Tooth, southeast ridge - 5.4

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Medium size stoppers and hexes of all sizes. Small to medium size cams are usefull. Route is well p
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This is a 6-7 pitch climb (850 veticle feet) that is accessed via "Sky Pond" and starts behind and in the gully behind the Petit Grepon The Shark Tooth is 12,630 feet above sea level. When climbing this peak from the designated bivy area in "The Sky Pond" plan on 10 to 13 hours for the round trip. Decent from the top is via the east ridge and two rap stations (160 feet and 200 feet rappels, the last 40 feet of the second rappel can be down climbed if you do not have two 60 meter ropes to rappel) to access the saddle. Use ledge system west of the coliour to decend back to the base of the Sharks Tooth to access "The Gash" or downclimb back to the gully between the Petit and the Tooth where you started the climb.

Submitted by: fanederhand on 2003-09-04
Views: 989
Route ID: 39886

2 Ascents Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: mother_sheep on 2004-07-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Witnessed by: timstich
Added: 2004-07-12

Red Point Red Point ascent by: timstich on 2004-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

The ascent up the gulley between Sharkstooth and the Petit Grepon is quite an outing in and of itself. We picked a point on the wall to start the route that seemed to be near the line. The rock on this wall has quite a bit of hard, gray lichen, moss, and patches of grassly ledges. In addition, there is a ton of loose rock, so occassionally downclimbing to pick a new way is mandatory. I suspect this route does not see a lot of traffic. The qualtiy of the pitches improves the higher you get. Trend right to avoid the imposing wall directly above. We connected with the East Gulley at it's second rappel station via a sloping ledge. For the descent to Sky Pond, we used the Easy Gulley to the saddle and then walked over to the Petit's rappels. One 60 meter rope will not get you entirely down, but it will get you within 150 of the lower ledges. We created a rap station with red webbing and a green cord below the South Face rap station with the slung rock projection and the bolts underneath. I downclimbed the easy diagonal notch from the lowest ledge.

Witnessed by: Tracey Roach
Added: 2004-07-11