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The Pocketknife - 5.11a

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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A full set of cams to #3 and doubles of the smaller stuff to #.75. Set of nuts and RPs.
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The start is the same as for the other Saber routes. P1: Simul-climb for 350 ft (up to 5.6) up to the second ramp system where the wall steepens. Head to the far left side of this ramp to an obvious right facing dihedral. Establish your belay at the base of the dihedral on nice ledge, ten feet below an older angle piton. P2 (10b R)-[Bernard's] guide calls this a 230 ft pitch, but is only about 180 ft: Head up the dihedral heading for the obvious chimney which is the pocketknife flake. Follow the finger and tight hand crack to terminus. Wander up and slightly left, using thin edges and incipient cracks while finding obscure gear placements along the way. Head up the Hands to offwidth to chimney crack (5.7/5.8), placing smaller gear to the right of the crack if you so desire. Mount the pocketknife flake and choose from two thin cracks to set an anchor. This is a fun ledge to belay from and this pitch is awesome. P2 (9 R)-This is a very short pitch 70ft. [Bernard's] guide implies climbing through an overhang, but the overhang is very insignificant and could be confused with the crux overhang, causing some problems: From the right side of the belay ledge head up finger crack. After 20 feet or so, begin to work your way to the left via the path of least resistance, aiming for the obvious corner below the larger roof. Establish your belay here, 20 feet below this roof in a corner with a good pin in it. This pitch has some death blocks on it and you should test all your holds and DO NOT place gear behind them. P3 (11a, 5.10 R): From the belay, head slightly up and left on "the [can opener]" flake. This flake is waiting to go, tread lightly and do not place gear behind it. I did however place a nut down low on the flake (where it seemed a bit more solid) just because otherwise you will be pulling 9+/10- moves on flaky rock, 20 feet above a pin which is part of your belay anchor. Undercling the roof and head out its middle via a nice off fingers to hands crack. Above the roof is exciting face climbing, random gear on lichen covered rock. Head toward the obvious splitter hand crack on the left side of the dihedral. Continue up the dihedral, turn a roof on the right and head further up the dihedral to a small belay ledge with tedious gear for the anchor. P4 (9+): Again, [Bernard's] description is a bit vague here: We simply headed up to the right (not the left) of the black roof. Above the roof, take the path of least resistance to the summit ridge. Descent: Head further up the summit ridge, to the right side before the 1st notch, and find a sling around a block. Descend via 4, full 200ft, rappels down the East Face into the Saber/Foil gully.

Submitted by: sharpie on 2005-07-27
Views: 301
Route ID: 68459