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Alexander's Chimney - WI4 M4

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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(Trad) Ice Mixed
Rock gear to 3 inches, maybe 4 stubbies and double ropes to run away if necessary.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty WI4 M4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


From Chasm Lake head up Lambs slide about 300 yards till you can see the route on your right. Slog up to the base of the ice (rock gear) and climb about 120' to the proper mouth of the chimney (using rock gear and stubbies) and belay at some tat. Climb up the easy WI3 to the constriction below the chockstone and belay. Make interesting moves up to the chockstone, place rock gear and pull out left to smear on a blank bulge (M4). Continue up a low angled open book ramp placing rock gear and stubbies until you find yourself under another chockstone and belay. Turn this roof on the left and move up and right to move past a very loose feeling block, then angle left and up to the anchor just below broadway. You can continue straight up to finish from the last belay, it's probably 5.8+ without ice in it. Rap the route in 3-200' rappels back to Lamb's Slide.

Submitted by: mankypin on 2005-11-26
Last Modified: 2012-11-12
Views: 1071
Route ID: 72068

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2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty WI4 M4
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2012-11-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Awesome

Great climbing. Easy first two pitches to more difficult and dryer last two pitches. Took a fun variation up to Broadway that was fun as well.

Added: 2012-11-09

Red Point Red Point ascent by: alpinekyle on 2004-11-21 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-11-21