Begin by ascending the Lower East Face to Broadway via Field's Chimney (800 ft.) P1-(5.4)Find the D1 Pillar and ascent the left side until at the beginning of a vertical crack system and a piton belay. You can easily simul or solo this pitch to save time. P2-Ascend the vertical crack, 5.9, stop at a small ledge that traverses left and up. You should see a piton out left. P3- (5.7)Traverse the face, being sure to not go too low. Aim upwards to the slings at the halfway point. Belay at the base of a short chimney. P4-(5.8) Grunt up the offwidth and gain the cracks and ledges up to a sloping ledge below the left dihedral. P5-(5.8) Continue up the Dihedral to Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge. This is the hardest pitch of 5.8 I've done. Consistent and long, at 55m or so. P6-(5.6)Short pitch up to the big ledge. P7-(5.10a) The crux lead. Follow thin cracks (.9) to a deep chimney (.9+). Come out of chimney and pop over crux overhang with fixed stoppers. Belay about ten feet above crux at old pitons. P8-(5.8) Traverse left on ledge, serious psychological move, and continue over ledges to either the walk off (up high) or the yellow wall rap off (down lower). Look for Bomber bolts.
Continue up Kieners to summit and descend Keyhole, rap cables route and chasm view, or...
RAP- Follow Bomber bolts (if it looks shady, youre at the wrong rap station) 5 two rope rappels to Broadway. Locate Rap anchors well below D1 Pillar and rap crack
Submitted by: philwortmann on 2007-08-28
Route ID: 79979