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Unnamed - 5.8

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock
Pro to 2", emphasis on small cams / stoppers
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
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  Exposure (Not Rated)
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  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

This is the roof problem just left of I Promise... Rated 5.9+ on climbingboulder.com (prior to some gardening on the upper half). Starts with a slabby finger crack 15' up into a roof. Good pro throughout this section. Pull the roof (fun) and continue up a slab on discontinuous shallow parallel cracks (bring small stoppers / cams). The slab starts out feeling 5.8ish but becomes lower angle the higher you go. Pro is adequate but feels a little sketchy in places, a bit more gardening would probably open up more placements. Rap off of two 1/4" bolts at the end of the pitch (80+'), or continue with the second pitch of I Promise...

Submitted by: holmeslovesguinness on 2005-02-06
Views: 377
Route ID: 63679

1 Ascent Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: holmeslovesguinness on 2005-02-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A surprisingly nice route. Not sure what the 'official' name is - some call it 'Number 9' or 'Karen Os' Sweatpants'. The roof is a lot of fun to pull, this section reminds me of Gonzo at Eldo. I was kind of grovelling on the slab section, the gear is thin in places, but mostly I was just being a pansy (and my calves were torched).

Prior to this Tom and I did a little gardening on the route he and Lou are working on ('Perfect for People'). The start is way out of my league, but above that it is a really nice 5.7ish chimney / corner.

Witnessed by: Tom, Lou
Added: 2005-02-05