Standard Rack to a #4 Friend. Some long runners would be helpful.
To reach Wally World you follow the approach trail to the base of the rock. From here you can head left to a slab with multiple bolted climbs or right to a large spot under a tree. Head right and look for two off width cracks about 40 feet off the ground. This is the start of the route. The route heads up towards the OW cracks and offers several variations here. You can climb the left of the two OW at 5.6 with good pro and continue up runout buckets to a belay at a small tree. To keep the climbing at 5.5 skirt the OW to the left and trend right to gain the afforementioned belay, or continue straight up over easier terrain to another tree belay. Pitch two heads up a fourth class section to a broad ledge with many options for terrain belays. I would keep an inexperienced second on belay for this section as it is fairly exposed and a slip could be ugly. The third pitch begins with a leftward traverse to gain an excellent finger crack. The traverse is easily protected with larger cams or tri cams. The finger crack heads straight up and through the final "keyhole" to gain the summit. The finger crack is by far the best part of the climb and easily protected. Set a belay and bring up your second and walk off climbers right down a 3rd class gully back to the base of the climb.
Submitted by: kranney on 2006-12-16
Last Modified: 2006-12-19
Route ID: 81961