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Center Route - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Stoppers, cams to fist size.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.43/5
  Rock Quality 4.86/5
  Scenery 4.71/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

This is sometimes called the best 5.9 in the state, though it is stout for the grade. To the right of the incredible dihedral(Wunsch's) is a perfect handcrack. Follow it for three pitches to a shoulder near the top of the spire. Reaching the tippy top requires bolted 5.11 climbing or aiding with a stick clip. Rap fixed acnhors to the right of Center Route-rapping the route is gauranteed to get your ropes stuck. Do NOT get on this route if you have no crack technique. It will seem stout to you if this is the case (even if you lead 10 in Eldo). It really is 5.9 (UBG).

Submitted by: uncle_big_green on 2003-01-16
Views: 884
Route ID: 5784

14 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: plantmandan on 2011-09-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Outstanding

This route will give you the full climbing experience. A must do.

Added: 2011-09-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 1998-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars free solo

One day I decided to free solo this to the crux, and then down solo. My buddy took pictures. Eight years later I visited an old woman friend in Germany and saw a picture of my free solo on her refrigerator. I had not only forgotten about sending the photo,but also forgot about the climb.

Added: 2010-08-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2009-10-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best and Hardest 5.9

This is a really fantastic climb. The approach kind of sucks but it keeps the crowds away. The climbing is very sustained but a lot of fun. It always felt a little desperate. If someone told me it was 5.10d I wouldn't have been surprised because I've onsighted climbs many grades harder that actually felt easier. That being said I think there are a few moves that might be harder than 5.9 but the climb is so sustained and pure crack climbing that it feels significantly harder. I would say this is a good crack climb for someone trying to break into 5.10's. Better have solid jams or it will eat your hands.

Added: 2009-10-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: davebal4 on 2007-04-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Route

I skipped the 5.11 bolt latter on the last 30 feet, but fun route nonetheless, and great views.

Added: 2009-01-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dlTOm on 1993-03-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First 5.9 lead

This ties with Eldorado Canyon's "The Green Spur" as my all-time favorite 5.9 climb. Fantastic line, the sort that novice 5.9 leaders don't often get to climb.

If you're breaking into 5.9, this climb alone is worth a trip to Colorado and the South Platte. It was my first 5.9 lead, and my first real crack climb of any sort--bomber pro all the way up, and it'll teach you that you really DON'T need holds after all. Felt more like 5.8 to me--not strenuous at all.

Added: 2008-01-19

... Read all 14 ascent notes