This is sometimes called the best 5.9 in the state, though it is stout for the grade. To the right of the incredible dihedral(Wunsch's) is a perfect handcrack. Follow it for three pitches to a shoulder near the top of the spire. Reaching the tippy top requires bolted 5.11 climbing or aiding with a stick clip. Rap fixed acnhors to the right of Center Route-rapping the route is gauranteed to get your ropes stuck.
Do NOT get on this route if you have no crack technique. It will seem stout to you if this is the case (even if you lead 10 in Eldo). It really is 5.9 (UBG).
One day I decided to free solo this to the crux, and then down solo. My buddy took pictures. Eight years later I visited an old woman friend in Germany and saw a picture of my free solo on her refrigerator. I had not only forgotten about sending the photo,but also forgot about the climb.
This is a really fantastic climb. The approach kind of sucks but it keeps the crowds away. The climbing is very sustained but a lot of fun. It always felt a little desperate. If someone told me it was 5.10d I wouldn't have been surprised because I've onsighted climbs many grades harder that actually felt easier. That being said I think there are a few moves that might be harder than 5.9 but the climb is so sustained and pure crack climbing that it feels significantly harder. I would say this is a good crack climb for someone trying to break into 5.10's. Better have solid jams or it will eat your hands.
This ties with Eldorado Canyon's "The Green Spur" as my all-time favorite 5.9 climb. Fantastic line, the sort that novice 5.9 leaders don't often get to climb.
If you're breaking into 5.9, this climb alone is worth a trip to Colorado and the South Platte. It was my first 5.9 lead, and my first real crack climb of any sort--bomber pro all the way up, and it'll teach you that you really DON'T need holds after all. Felt more like 5.8 to me--not strenuous at all.