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Wunsch's Dihedral - 5.12b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
nuts to a #3.5cam/#4friend with mutiples (at least 2-3) in thin finger to hand sized pieces
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

One of the best 5.11 crack climbs in the state. Complete Wunsch's Dihedral: P1. Breashear's Finger crack. The obvious finger crack to a nice bivy ledge. Mostly wires and TCUs. 100 feet,12a P2. The very sustained nice hand crack in the dihedral. 120? feet, 11a P3. Out a roof up a beautiful overhanging finger crack with stems. 120? feet, 11b P4. Bolt ladder. 60? feet, 12b Easier Wunsch's (11b,A0): P1. ascend the wide crack dihedral just right of Breashear's finger crack. 100 feet, 5.8 P2a. Ascend the first half of the second pitch and step right to a belay. 60? feet, 10b P2b. Step back into the dihedral and climb the second half. 60? feet, 11a Breaking up the dihedral gives each climber a good rest and minimizes the gear needed for the pitch (hand sized pieces) P3.The finger crack dihedral. 120? feet, 11b P4.The bolt ladder. 60? feet, 5.9, A0 Rap south 70? feet to the shoulder and then do two double rope raps down the face to the start of the route.

Submitted by: mountainmonkey on 2003-01-10
Views: 1105
Route ID: 30417

8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cracklover on 2012-09-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fantastic

Led P1, P3, p5. Did the standard P1, not Breshears crack. Aided the bolt ladder.

Added: 2012-09-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Climbnkev on 2008-02-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Breshear's start to Bolt Ladder finish free

Climbed the route in three pitches with Angry John linking the second and third. Finally sent the bolt ladder.

Added: 2008-03-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: franzr on 1997-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars No comment

No comment

Added: 2007-04-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: angry on 2005-12-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars !

!

Added: 2006-11-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: jcinco on 2004-01-19 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I led the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Onsighted the 2nd, but got worked on the 3rd. I obviously don't have the crack climbing fitness in January.

Added: 2004-01-19

... Read all 8 ascent notes