The long chimney crack system on the Headstone. Three short pitches or 1 long one and 1 short one. Pitch 1 10d. Go to the base of the slab below the large chimney/crack system that goes to the top of the crag. High first clip, not too hard to get to. Climb the slab secton over chicken heads and small ledges. The crux of this pitch is probably at the first little gap. Get the vertical wall climb up through another 40 ft or so the first anchors. A little overhanging in spots don't be afraid to zig zag a little. You can belay here or continue on. From here the difficulties are no more than 10b. Climb to the ledge underneath the big roof. Take the crack on the right with good holds, ok feet. There is a bolt just over the roof that you can't see. It's there just climb up so you can get your head around it. Clip the bolt climb another 10ft to the anchors. Second pitch starts on the left side of an arete. Only 5.8 with great exposure, climb the arete to the chimney to the top. Fantastic views from the top. If you have one rope, you need to make three rappels to get down. If you brought two ropes rappel down to the anchors at the bottom of the 5.8 pitch. Than make a 150ft rappel down to the valley floor, otherwise make a rappel down to the mid anchors on the first pitch, then rappel to the ground.
A magnificent route. Probably the crown jewel of the multi pitch moderates at Devil's Head, a must do!
Submitted by: killclimbz on 2004-10-11
Route ID: 58415