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In Search of Unicorns - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Set O' Cams, Stoppers for Free, bring RP's, Lowe Balls for Aiding upper pitches
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

This route follows the often wet crack just to the left of Wudamudafuka. The first pitch is 5.11. The upper aid pitch goes at A1 and goes out the route on the left past a fixed head and manky 1/4". Will go clean on fixed gear. Definately a great aid route for those days when free climing just feels a little too hard. There is also an aid variation that goes up and right on heads up a thin seam. Pendulum of two fixed alumaheads into upper part of Wudamudafuka. Bring extra heads in case fixed ones are blown. If aiding route goes at 5.6 A1, Free at 5.11

Submitted by: jderekforrester on 2005-05-09
Views: 705
Route ID: 66434

Most Recent Photos

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cracklover on 2011-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Very nice route

Short, but quality.

Added: 2011-11-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2009-10-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I love this one

Two possible starts. Both are tricky and require care to prevent decking. A really super crack climb good for workout laps.

Added: 2009-10-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: cracklover on 2009-02-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun!

Too bad I was so tired before even starting it. After hangdogging my way up it on lead, I TR'ed it cleanly. Once by the direct start, which was dry on this day, and once on the left-side start.

Added: 2009-02-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: angry on 1978-08-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars !

!

Added: 2006-12-02