ascend ice to small tree on large ledge 180' from base. Move right, then traverse ice blobs to M6 chimney, gaining an icy belay ledge near base of upper pillar (80'). Ascend pillar, then move out to the face to easier ice. Top out, move right to knarled tree.
60M Free-hanging rap from slings at base of knarled tree to the ice just below the large ledge, v-thread rap to ground from there.
More Fun than Naked Iraqi Cheerleaders, just barely
We got the "anti-alpine" start, crack of 1:00 start wasn't optimal. Fatter than the last time! The mixed bit is pumpy, M6 or so and the last pitch will have to wait until next time. The crazy ice on the last pitch was hard not to do in the dark, 3rd time will be a charm, I'm sure.
It was fat! We didn't get an alpine start, rather an alpine finish. We arrived at the base as another party was topping out, so it was nearly noon by the time picks were swinging. It was full conditions as a party of three, I topped out just as the light was beginning to fade. With only one headlamp between the three of us, the rap into the dark was an experience itself!