Just to the left of Hot Wee Wee, which is the huge dihedral in the middle of Ophir wall.
P1: The start is kinda vague, but basically goes up the not-so-well-protected face to the left of Hot Wee Wee. Somewhere you'll find a set of bolts for an anchor.
P2: Head out right past a bolt and up past a bulge and into a shallow dihedral.
P3: This pitch is definitely "R" rated and requires a cool head. Continue up the shallow dihedral, until it basically ends and you're staring up a blank intimidating face. Make sure you do not pass any gear placements on the way up to this point, because after this the gear is small and questionable. Head out right and up a little, aiming for a shallow slot that takes a good green alien and then continue heading right to another shallow slot that takes a marginal #0 TCU. At this point, you're about thirty to fourty feet up and to the right of your last piece in the shallow dihedral. I do not recommend blowing this section, as the #0 TCU might not hold and you could go for a very big ride. Once again, only a cool head and nerves of steel will prevail. Eventually you will make it past the technical and scary part and to some good holds. After all the "R" rated climbing is done, there is an unnecessary bolt. Continue up past bolt to a belay. Either rap down the face or continue up to the top of Hot Wee Wee.
Submitted by: madmax on 2004-04-08
Route ID: 50954