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Raven - 5.9

Average Rating = 2.50/5 Average Rating : 2.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Carrie and Bob Robertson, 2000
Rock (Sport)
G
1
8 bolts (a couple of long ones) + anchors
75
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Description from Mountain Project: "Just left of the striking arete of Funkdamental, find a wide crack with three bolts. At the third bolt, pull left into a lieback crack. Place a long sling on the third bolt, and after clipping the fifth bolt, reach down and unclip the fourth to reduce rope drag. Launch into a few lieback moves then step right across a slab and gain a short crack in a shallow corner. Follow your nose past a headwall, and arrive at the anchors in short order. A long draw on the last bolt reduces rope drag for lowering off." MP gives it 5.9+; guidebook lists it as 4 stars (see my rebuttal)

Submitted by: kvochatzer on 2009-08-10
Views: 330
Route ID: 101262

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: iluvtoplayoutside on 2009-11-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars This is a great route

Not sure about the above poster, but outdoor climbing is not climb by color at the gym. This route offers a diverse option of climbing, laybacking is most effective for the middle of the route. Slightly old school spacing, obvious where to go if you know what a 5.9 is. Pumpy for a warm up for the 5.10 climber.

Added: 2009-11-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2009-08-07 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars first climb at shelf for a guidebook suggested 4 stars... read on

My first route at Shelf was directed by the guidebook rating of 4 stars and for the purpose of warming up and feeling the rock.

IMO, a four-star experience is not one that you must know to go left after the 3rd bolt because the natural line and another climb follows the features (read prominent crack) straight upward - this climb does not follow any natural line and cuts out of the crack for no good reason. Secondly, whether you know this at bolt 3 or figure it out after bolt 4 on the straight route, this route's supposed bolt 4 is way off to the left unnecessarily and causes a drastic bend in the rope, long draws or not (there is solid rock 2 feet to the right and 2 feet higher. Thirdly, as the description says, a four star route does not make you down climb after a clip to unclip the protection below it to reduce unnecessary rope drag. A different bolt placement for #4 would eliminate these issues. FINALLY, the worst part of it all is the extremely unnecessary rope drag going to the anchors. The bolters must have really wanted to do that last 5.4 move from the small platform to the 3 foot deep platform to put the anchors there instead of 5 feet lower and before the big shelf. The climb could have ended naturally at the small platform and would never have unnecessarily caused so much rope drag as to cut grooves into the rock on the ledge below the anchors. To give this climb 4 out of 4 stars in the guidebook, I have to suspect that one of the guidebook authors bolted this thing... poorly.

Based on my opinions, disappointments and experience as a route developer myself.

Added: 2009-08-10