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The Checkerboard Wall - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock
standard rack--doubles from small aliens up to #1.5 friend are helpful. Double ropes are also nice.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Wonderful and exciting route, and one of the shortest in the Canyon. Good to do the day before or after your big grade V project. I found this route to be less runout than the guidebooks suggest (I led the last 2 pitches), but it still keeps you on your toes. Starts in the obvious bushy ramp system in the center of the face; climb 250' or so of 5.7 up this to belay below an ugly slot. P2 climbs around the corner, up the face (fixed pin) at 5.9, and up a ramp right to belay. P3 is awesome--sustained 5.10 liebacking and stemming up the right-leaning corner. Step left out of the corner (well before it ends) and into another corner which is also 5.10 and kind of thinly protected (a fixed pin helps). Face climbing up and left leads to a hanging belay in yet another right-facing corner. P4 was my favorite: up the corner, then up the 5.9 face past a pin and an unnecessary retro-bolt (a bit runout) to a long arch. Undercling the arch right for about 40 ft. (very cool 10-), until it is possible to hand traverse back left above. Then, climb up and left on fun 5.8 face with better gear than one would expect. Traverse off left under the summit block, and bushwack up to the rim.

Submitted by: takeme on 2004-05-10
Views: 741
Route ID: 26991

7 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2006-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route

I found this a bit stiff for the grade. Be confident running 5.9 out quite a way. The crux pitch is a bit tough to get started. I needed to fiddle a bit to make it reasonably safe. The crux area is reasonably well protected

Added: 2009-10-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2007-09-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun route.

With jeff bevan.. a month after having surgery for carpal tunnel in both wrists.

Added: 2007-10-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: useyourfeet on 2007-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route

followed crux pitch.

Added: 2007-09-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jimmyray on 2006-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Partner: Marcus Garcia

Added: 2006-08-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cologman on 2003-05-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Linked with Comic Relief. Josh lead the crux diehedral & I lead the runout headwall. The step around from the roof onto the face is a great sequence. Stepping out of the crux diehedral onto the face is another great move/sequence. The face climbing on the headwall although runout a bit is not over 5.8. Protection although thin is certainly available.

Witnessed by: Josh Janes
Added: 2003-05-16

... Read all 7 ascent notes