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Goss-Logan - 5.11b

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Description:

Bobd? Want to add the description, you have my book and my brain is fried from climbing it... I can't remember a thang! Kcrag Ok Kelly here is my take on it. A fourteen pitch route that starts left of the Scenic Cruise. This route is more demanding than the Scenic Cruise with a crux pitch with long runouts and bad fall potential. Lot's of hard crack climbing and route finding can be difficult at times. Allow at least 10-12 hours for the climb and bring a fair amount of water as the route stays in the sun till late afternoon. We did the route in eleven hours rim to rim with me leading all but the third pitch. Kelly did an amazing job on this route and never once whine or stress-out. Wish I could say the same. By pitch ten I wanted out. The sun was unrelenting and the constant sound of the river was a big tease to our parched bodies. Bring a standard "Black" rack with double in the hand and fist size. Again the crux pitch has bad fall potential and you should feel solid on 5.11 runout face climbing. We topped out around 6:45 pm with beautiful light turning the canyon a soft gold. The moon was just starting to rise and two very tired climbers were just to very happy to be on top and safe. Pitch one and two: 5.9 Start as for the Cruise and climbing up 200 feet to a belay just below a large ledge at some fixed slings. This can done as one pitch using a 200 foot rope. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. Traverse left for 100 feet to a bushy corner system. Pitch three: 5.8 Climb up the bushy corner past a couple of fixed pins with slings to a ledge just below a blocky section. Pitch four: 5.9 Go left up the corner system and reach a belat at a bolt and fixed stopper. Pitch five: 5.9 Go left and then down a for 10 feet. Climb up the wide crack/chimmey to the top of a large block. Use caution gaining the top of the block due to loose rock. Belay from bolts from the river side of the block. Pitch six: 5.10 Climb up the obtuse thin corner with small gear to a belay at new bolt and bomber yellow alien.I would almost give this pitch an r-rating. Pitch seven:5.11R The runout pitch. There are two long (20-25 feet) runout sections on this pitch with very bad fall potential. Traverse up and right into a small corner, place gear (small stopper and green alien) and then go right (scary 5.9) on fairly good holds to the first bolts (one modern/one old button)take a deep breath and traverse right on small edges (scary 5.10) to the second bolt. Clip the bolt and climb straight up past two more bolts (5.11) tending right to a crack (wild exposure). Belay about 15 feet up the crack or continue another 30 feet to a good ledge. I belay in the crack to keep my second in sight. A wild, wild pitch. Pitch eight: 5.10+ Climb the obvious flaring hand and fist crack with good gear up to a good ledge. A hard pitch. Pitch nine: 5.10 Climb up a hand and fist crack that leads into a wide chimmey. Follow the chimmey and veer left onto a flake. Climb the flake and then go right up a shallow, narrow groove (green alien at the top of the groove) and mantle onto a good ledge that meets into the "the Cruise/Scenic Cruise. Climb up a short slab to a good belay below a huge flake. Option: 5.10+ Traverse left under the overhang and then climb up a thin corner that leads directly to the shallow groove. I got off route on this pitch and did the above option. Pitch ten: 5.8 Climb up blocky rock and then a short corner with a thin crack. Step left and go behind the huge flake. Climb up the flake and then flip the rope around to the front side of the flake. Climb up a short crack to a new three-bolt anchor. Pitch eleven: 5.9+ Traverse right on a fairly good holds then up a short corner to a bolt (1/4 inch) on the right. Go right and then reach a new bolt and make a hard move past the bolt reaching a crack system. Follow the crack up to a great ledge below a small overhang. Pitch twelve: 5.9+ Crank over the overhang and angle left up a good ledge and belay. Pitch thirteen: Traverse left on good flakes for 25 feet to a corner. Follow the corner straight up (5.9+) to a good belay just below a red-colored overhang. Pitch fourteen:5.8 Climb through the overhang and up a short corner. At the top of the corner veer right into a slot with a flake/crack on the left. Crank up the flake and over a small overhang to a large ledge system and the end of the climb. To reach the top: Traverse up and right to another ledge system. Go left for 300 feet to just below the overlook. climb up to the top.

Submitted by: bobd1953 on 2004-09-28
Views: 467
Route ID: 60119

2 Ascents Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: numbnut on 2004-12-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-12-25

Ratings
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Red Point Red Point ascent by: kcrag on 2004-09-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

enjoyed the route (especially my partner leading the cruxes), but i don't think i'd repeat it.

Witnessed by: bobd1953
Added: 2004-09-18