Incredible route! I think Josh Janes submitted a good description, but it must have been munched in one of the upgrades. This route is 1700' long, the final 1500 of which are dead vertical, usually done in around a dozen pitches--rates Grade V. Some highlights: 2-3 pitches of ultra-sustained, varied, but perfect 5.10 cracks in a row; 3 extremely exposed traverves on the upper half of the route, one of which is 5.10- and a bit scary; a crux pitch which includes an exciting traverse, a strenuous overhanging corner, perfect hands, and a squeeze chimney to top it off! The final highlight is when you reach the top, food, water and beer are only a 5 minute walk away...see climbingboulder.com for a complete pitch-by-pitch description.
Submitted by: takeme on 2003-08-02
Route ID: 38817
Onsight solo - had to feed the Demon. Not much I can add about the quality or the difficulty that others have not pointed out. But I will say it is probly best to get up the first five or so pitches Before they get blasted by the sun.
Incredible passage up a big wall. We were the ONLY climbers in the canyon, making for one of my most amazing days out I've EVER had! The pegmatite traverse felt pretty casual as the hardest moves are well-protected. Route finding was a bit tricky in the pitches after the crux but there's probably several reasonable options. No single pitch felt all that hard but the sustained nature of the route will work you over!
My third time up, and I'll be back again. Started at the top in 4 inches of snow, intending to "have a look at the routes". The bottom half was damp but enjoyable. A really nice day, without the nagging route finding doubts.
Amazing climb done with Steve C. Sustained 5.10 climbing for close to 2000 feet. Overhanging layback crux. The Black is a frightening, yet captivating, place. A place where dragons indeed must of ruled over the great chasm which is aptly named the Black.