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Debutante's Ball - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
Standard Black Canyon Rack.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Grade IV. An OK climb, good in parts, crappy in parts. Lots of 5.11 pitches, but the cruxes are short and the climbing isn't too sustained. Approach via the SOB gulley. The climb starts on the buttress left of Comic Relief Buttress. Difficult route finding early... pitches 4-5 are excellent... pitches 7-10 are short. The last 5.11 pitch has the hardest climbing. See climbingboulder.com for a thorough description.

Submitted by: jcinco on 2003-11-24
Views: 586
Route ID: 26986

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2009-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Worth doing once

This route is just up hill from comic relief in the SOB gulley. The bottom 15 ft of the route changed due to rock fall. After first pitch we were lost, and wandered around until we got to the first 11 crux--and arching finger crack. This leads to a ramp where you can bail, or access the top part. first pitch off ledge is bouldery 5.11 to easy climbing. next pitch has a death block in a dihedral you need to climb around-second seek shelter under huge roof. next pitch is rotten, scary, compelling 5.11 to a roof and ledge. Take a # 4 camalot. Fourth pitch comitting slab to a roof crux--more like 11 +. Fifth pitch wander up crack, face and death blocks. Next pitch is off left a bit, a large "black dihedral" minimal gear, committing. After this long pitch is a short easy section to the top. A route for the canyoneer.

Added: 2009-11-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2009-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Worth doing once

This route is just up hill from comic relief in the SOB gulley. The bottom 15 ft of the route changed due to rock fall. After first pitch we were lost, and wandered around until we got to the first 11 crux--and arching finger crack. This leads to a ramp where you can bail, or access the top part. first pitch off ledge is bouldery 5.11 to easy climbing. next pitch has a death block in a dihedral you need to climb around-second seek shelter under huge roof. next pitch is rotten, scary, compelling 5.11 to a roof and ledge. Take a # 4 camalot. Fourth pitch comitting slab to a roof crux--more like 11 +. Fifth pitch wander up crack, face and death blocks. Next pitch is off left a bit, a large "black dihedral" minimal gear, committing. After this long pitch is a short easy section to the top. A route for the canyoneer.

Added: 2009-11-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jcinco on 2003-10-11 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

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Added: 2003-10-11