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Journey Home - 5.10b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Standard Black Conyon Rack. 1 #4 camalot
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.25/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Grade IV. One of the best multi-pitch 5.10s in North America. Shorter, but more sustained than the Scenic Cruise. Approach via the Cruise Gulley. This follows the huge left-facing dihedral system just left of Ament's Chimney. 300-400 feet of 3rd class gains the start. Pitch 1 has runout face climbing with instant exposure (5.9 R, do not fall!) to gain the dihedral system. The next 4-5 pitches are long pitches, with sustained climbing in the 5.10minus range. A definite crux (solid 5.10) comes on pitch 2 or 3 (depending on where you belay) exiting the chimney. Due to its sustained nature, this is a climb that should not be underestimated.

Submitted by: jcinco on 2003-11-24
Views: 1213
Route ID: 26979

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15 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jackflash on 2010-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Led all pitches. Did it in 4 pitches to the big ledge and soloed the exit flakes/chimney. 70 m rope. Last two pitches were rope stretchers.

Added: 2011-03-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: useyourfeet on 2007-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars beautiful mind fuck

led the first pitch....awesome.

Added: 2007-09-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 1998-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars onsight

I had a ledge collapse at the top. Closest I've come to death in 30 years climbing

Added: 2007-08-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: amason on 2007-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars big day

9 pitch could use a bolt ,poor landing for grounder. The crux was the sustained nature of this excellent climb , Id do it again . Much harder than Cruise in my opinion.

Added: 2007-06-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1997-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Worth repeating

I've done this route twice, and enjoyed it both times. It was nice to get to lead what I followed the first time. The crux pitch is superb. The second time up, my belayer fell asleep while I was leading a pitch near the top. That's always fun.

Added: 2007-03-30

... Read all 15 ascent notes