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atlantis - 5.11b

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Rock (Trad)
double cams small to 3 inches and nuts. a few bolts.
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Obtain a topo from the Ranger station. Head down Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gully to the river. Head upstream a few hundred yards-walk along the wall. Atlantis is marked by a cairn which cannot be seen from the river. The first 30-40 ft wander up a slab to a crack system. P1: 5.9 Climb an easy crack up the right side of a pillar in a right-facing corner to its top. Go over a small roof with good gear near by, and face climb (a little runout) up and right over the bulge to a good belay ledge P2: 5.9 Climb the beautiful flake up to a right-facing corner, to a massive ledge-belay on the top left side of the corner for a better start to the next pitch. P3: 5.11 Head up a crack 20 ft to a horizontal, and follow the horizontal 20 ft right past a pin. Somewhat run out. Head up crack to bolt, crux at bolt. One bolt belay. Note: the route No Country for Old Men heads up and left here, rather than right. P4: 5.10+ Up a right-facing feature right off the belay to under a roof, belay at right edge of the roof. This pitch is often wet. There are multiple cracks usefull for protection. After this pitch, we did not encounter water. P5: 5.10- Fun pitch, annoying belay in the chimney with some flaky rock. P6: 5.7 This would be the easiest pitch to get lost on, I did. Continue up the chimney and ramp til its end. Traverse right, then go up a right-facing feature for about 5 meters. At this point, you are probably 25-30m out from the belay. You will look up to some broken features in the 'black grotto' and even some fixed tat hanging off the roof-this is NOT the way. We belayed in this area where there was good gear. Standing belay. Look right and down and you will see a massive, hanging, left-facing corner and roof-step over the corner to get on the ramp that would be the top of this feature. P7: From our belay, we traversed down and about 30 ft straight right. The first 20 ft has no gear, and the first part of this is 5.9 slab--dangerous for follower. After going around a corner following a crack with good gear, head straight up through tiered roofs 5.10 with good, but spaced gear. A fixed pin you climb up to will blaze the way a little bit as you work your way to some right-facing features. Keep climbing out of sight of your belayer till you get to a good ledge belay with 2 fixed pins. P8: 5.11- Crux off the belay protected by a bolt. Pull through some steep overlaps, and then climb easily to another massive ledge. Really fun overhanging stemming. P9: 5.9 Follow topo, belay on block-tight little belay for 2 people-finger-size pieces and nuts for belay. P10: 5.11- Another fun pitch off by yourself as you can't see your belayer. Belay on a small ledge at the top of the groove-corner feature. I think there was a fixed pin. P11: 5.8 (R?) The pitches get short for a bit here. Peg pitch with a bolt-wow that's nice. Easy climbing, on good rock, I don't know if it's really R, but don't fall. Get on to another massive ramp and go up and left on 4th class til you see the next pitch with its bolt. P12: 5.10 R Short crux protected by the bolt, don't blow it after that, another small ledge belay. P13: 5.10 Short crux after some peg wandering-its a little loose in the peg, but the hard climbing is on good rock, with a fixed pin-follow the topo, go up off the belay, then do a straight left traverse into the spot marked 'awkward'. The belay is on the huge ledge feature with a tower-you could theoretically unrope here and bushwhack off the route, as per the Lost City escape However, the last three pitches are super--don't miss them. Take off the rope off walk up to the prow of the headwall about 200' away. P14: One of the best pitches on the climb. 5.11 Climb some groove and face features unprotected and easy for the first 20' to the obvious, right-facing corner til you get to the bolt. Clip it, climb the crux, and use face holds to climb the sides of the OW Belay on the pedestal. P15: 5.10 Short crux off the belay, to easy crack climbing to large, broken ledge with boulders. P16: 5.10 Climb through a few awkward roofs until you get to the narrows overlook. Enjoy the sunset.

Descent Options:

Walk out to the road and to your car.

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2009-11-03
Last Modified: 2010-02-03
Views: 348
Route ID: 102288