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Porcelain Arete - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Double set of Cams to 2", 1 -3" & 1-4" optioanl Set of stoppers through medium Lots of runners
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


Third class up gash between Northern Arete of Painted Wall and Porcelain Arete for about 400' and work right on ledge system to far right side of formation. Start up obvious left facing bushy system for 250'. Move left on peg band 30' to finger hand crack go up 20'(5.9+) and move left around bulge to easier ground and another left facing system. Thrash up this system for another 250' and exit behind chockstone for grins. Set belay on easy ground above. Two options present now, original route seems to have moved left to obvious manky looking left facing diehedral and up it to easier broken ground above (5.?). Our option was to move slightly up and left then face climb up and right 100' 5.8 to another rightish facing crack chimney system and set belay after 180' in an alcove with a small tree. A nice crack in shallow left facing system presents itself above, climb to a stance to the right of and just below the roofs looming above 5.9+, good climbing, 110'! Move left 60' - 70' under the roofs and set up under finger crack. Two boulder moves off stance 5.10- lead to easier climbing on one of many headwalls to come. Follow line of least resistance first right then left through a notch behind pillar to more steps and head walls. 300' - 400' of third class to low fifth class puts you on the rim.

Submitted by: cologman on 2006-10-02
Views: 632
Route ID: 80095

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating R
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: tharlow on 2007-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars porcelain arete

started on porcelain, ended on the border

Added: 2008-07-10

Red Point Red Point ascent by: cologman on 2006-09-30 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Not a three or four star rte! Maybe two stars on a really stellar day like we climbed it on. But still a climb worth ticking in the Black Canyon. Allow about 2 hours for the approach and 1 hour for the hike baCK.

Witnessed by: dbyte
Added: 2006-09-30