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Astrodog V 11+ - 5.11d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Robert Warren and Peter Gallaher, June 1986
Rock (Trad)
Double set of cams to #3, one number 4 is useful for many pitches. Set of micros, rps and TCU's are great for the crux pitch
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Starts to the right of The Flakes and is on the south chasm amphitheater as so its called, if you want to get to the other side of the canyon for routes on the north chasm wall you must tyrolean traverse across the river, but when the rover is running high it is nearly if not impossible to cross, good luck! Pitch one-165 feet roughly, 5.10+. The first pitch goes up and then moves right to a belay. It ascends the left leaning crack and moves right and then up to the belay. Make sure you follow the crack system and not the arete that is for the route golberg special. Make your own anchor at this bay, there aren't any for the pitch nor for the decent of astro slog. Pitch Two-

Descent Options:

Astroslog is definitely the easiest, takes no longer than 3 hours unless you run into trouble. There is also SOFB gully which has about 5 rappels and some class 3/4 scrambling. There is also another gully to the east of the chasm wall but is not worth i

Submitted by: fearlessclimber on 2007-06-20
Views: 1033
Route ID: 86441

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 1999-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A good route

We did this on the 4th, in a day. Started at 0500, toped out with a ranger looking on, in the dusk. There are several places we got off route. Right after the first 5.11 crux, we wandered a bit too far left, and climbed a 5.10 dihedral, run out and a bit scary. At the top, there are several options. We chose one on the left-verticle, runout, dirty and brushy. All that said, most of the route was good, clean for black, challenging climbing.

Added: 2009-11-02

  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fearlessclimber on 2007-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Epic in the black

Took one extra day because of high winds freezing temps and snow, 3rd route in the black now and and i have already had my epic, besides that all aside from the hypothermia and dehydrated state i made it out alive leading every pitch. I wouldn't say i hang dogged it but wouldn't say i onsighted it, had one good fall and a few hangs. Next time I do this route I will definately bring more water and food. If you climb this route don't expect it to be easy, the entire climb was sustained except for the first and last pitch. Definitely climb a few easier routes in the black before this one, it protects pretty well except for a few pitches. The Black canyon is mean that all i got to say.

Added: 2007-06-11