double cams to 3 inches, optional 4 and 4.5 # 5 camalot for the last pitch (or unprotected 5.9 OW). Nuts. A few bolts
The rappels to access this climb are close to the Painted Wall overlook. Go to the overlook, and head about 200 yards right. Anchors to start the rappels are about 100 ft down a very small, steep gully. There are 4 double rope rappels into gully below. Follow this gulley nearly to a river. The approach was reasonably pleasant. There are two huge blocks leaning against the wall. the route starts above the higher one.
Obtain a topo from the ranger station. 5.10a The first pitch follows a rather dirty wet section up a crack and into chimneys. After chimneys follow low angle crack to small cave. long pitch 2. 5.10 pull out of cave, and up V. go right around roof and wander up a long slab past one bolt. Belay someplace left on a ledge or in the grass. 3. fourth class. head across large ledges with grass to face. The correct line is the most obvious one, about in the middle of the face. 4. Excellent pitch. It starts with a hand crack, which narrows higher. 10+ Find a reasonable spot to belay. Ours had a block in the chimney where a rope could be stacked. 5. 5.10 Some roofs followed by a huge unpleasant chimney, rotten on the left side with sparse gear on the right. 6. 5.10 more chimney, followed by an excellent fists roof. Up low angle OW 5.6. 7. 5.10 take rightward option. Good climbing first 30 ft deteriorates into mossy broken stuff. 8. This belay is in a rubble filled slot between two towers. From here to the top is excellent rock and features. 5.10 On the left side there is a hand crack that goes up 50 ft to a roof. Climb this and turn roof left. 9. Belay on top of tower. Make a very secure belay, because the next pitch 5.10+ (I thought 5.10+++) has very long fall potential. Step right, and clip marginal fixed nut. About 10 ft higher, there are more marginal placements. I was able to slot a wierd czech nut that might have held. Pull a few more hard moves to a very small stance, then one more boulder move to improving holds. A fall from this last hard move could dump you 60 or 70 ft into the rubble. Set the belay low in an arching crack beneath the Crystal Vision slab. 10. 5.11 Climb slab diagonally right, and then right into a crack system. Wait to place pro as high as possible. Follow crack to a roof and horizontal tending right. Uncomfortable belay. 11. 5.9 Go right around corner and follow interesting features upward and right. At a horizontal, go back left and up to a slabby belay, beneath a slab capped by a small roof. 12. 5.10 A OW follow thin crack on right to roof, traverse under roof left to OW, pull roof and climb OW. This is unprotectable for about 20 ft unless you have a # 5 camalot. Belay at top of feature. There is still about 400 ft of climbing up to 5.8 to get off. Wander up, then rightward. Spot a slot about 100ft up, and slightly left. Aim for this. We did it in two long pitches, which took about 45 minutes.
walk through brush to the road
Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2009-11-03
Route ID: 102291