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Southern Arete - 5.10c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Standard rack up to 4". Extra .75-2".
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Start up the obvious weakness just up from the low point of the wall. The first belay ends at 3 fixed pitons. Continue 2 more pitch's up to the "the meadow" which is a huge ledge. Move the belay approximatly 200' to the south and climb up the obvious gully/chimney system(simul climbing is recomended). Belay at the top of this system on a big bushy ledge. Move right on the ledge then head up towards a small tree, climb the short fun crack behind the tree and up the slab to the base of an obvious pegmatite slot. Continue following this wide crack/chimney system for several pitch's, the crux coming at a roof/corner with a fixed tube chock(5.10 wide). After the crux, climb a very long 5.7 chimney pitch to a good ledge on the edge of the arete, this is directly below an obvious 5.9 face. Climb the 5.9R face above and out right(around the corner/arete), the easiest variation starts heading right on the Peg. band. Belay at the base of some very obvious and beautiful cracks above. This belay is very exposed as the east face of the wall sweeps away below you. Having a couple of #7-#8 hex's for this belay is nice to avoid using the gear you'll need for the pitch.Climb the cracks above at 5.10+ in 2 pitch's(could be done as one-with extra gear in the .75 -2" range). To finish climb 400+ ft of easy 5th class to the rim. This climb is anywhere from 10-20 pitch's depending on how much simul-climbing is done.

Submitted by: flamer on 2004-08-22
Views: 1548
Route ID: 57814

6 Ascents Recorded

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  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: iceisnice on 2006-10-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Loved it

amazing climb. don't under estimate it though. we thought we were fast........we were wrong.

Added: 2006-12-04

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fearlessclimber on 2006-04-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

this was my first big wall climb and i had a great time, after the climb i slept for like 16 hours you could say i was tired

Witnessed by: kyle, rick
Added: 2006-04-09

Onsight Onsight ascent by: takeme on 2005-09-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I loved this route and will definitely do it again. It's a great adventure and it gets you waaay up there. Despite a fair amount of choss, almost all the climbing is really fun, and the route consistently gets steeper and more spectacular the higher you go. It feels like climbing a mountain rather than simply a big cliff. We both thought the offwidth move by the tube chock was the route crux--I barely eeked through on TR. It has great pro though (but the route as a whole is pretty serious). Took us just under 9 hours to do the climb, with about 1.5 for the approach and a little over an hour for the hike back to camp. This would be a good climb to do if you've done the Scenic Cruise and want to do another grade V 5.10 in the Black, just don't come expecting the same high quality rock.

Witnessed by: Josh Janes (jsj42)
Added: 2005-09-12

Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: cologman on 2004-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

As Josh said, another a$$ kicking in the Black. He pretty well summed it up. The only thing I can add is why do I keep going back?.... 'cause its the Black. I'm sure there are more mini-epics waiting there for me.

Witnessed by: Josh Thompson
Added: 2004-08-11

Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: flamer on 2004-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Another A$$ kicking in the black.
Dehydration, route finding problems, getting lost in the woods- would it be the black without alittle epic thrown in?
We were to wasted to send the upper crux pitch's- the french may have something going here. A good day.

Witnessed by: Jeff Bevan
Added: 2004-08-11

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