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Long Dong Wall Route - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock
Stoppers, hexes, and cams. Camalot #.1 to #4, doubles #.4 to #2. A couple small Ball Nuts are nice f
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Cool route! Follow the Monument Canyon Trail around the tower to the Northwest face then scramble up scree to the base. Locate the saddle between Bell Tower and the smaller tower to the south. Boulder problem takes you to ledge and obvious double crack system on south face of Bell Tower. Pitch 1: (5.11a) Climb up double crack system (5.10+) with sidepulls, fingerlocks, handjams, and stemming. Fun pitch! Bring a lot because it can be a little scary. Follow crack system and traverse left (5.11a) at a drilled pin. Save a trad draw for this precarious little move. Pitch 2: (5.7)Goes up obvious chimney. Mostly easy climbing is followed by a squeeze chimney. Pro: Camalots #2 to #4. Save at least 1 #3 for the top. Pitch 3: (4th class) Carefully scramble up right on blocks with some loose stuff. Squeeze through chimney to large ledge with slings around rock. Pro: Nothing if you're comfortable on 4th high off the deck. Just be careful. Pitch 4: (5.8) From ledge step across and up sandy offwidth with good, but delicate holds on face. Next, go up easy, but exposed climbing on large flake trapped between main tower and huge arch that forms the belfry. A little spooky because you can't tell what is holding it all together and it is runout at top. Plus, you have to body wedge between the arch and the tower, making you wonder if you might just pry it apart. Pro: hexes for start, and run of cams. Pitch 5: (5.10 - if you're short, otherwise pretty easy)Stem up past two bolts to bird and bat feces infested "cave". Go right after bolts following crack and then head left to tight squeeze tunnel. Pro: 2 draws, 2 long runners, stoppers, and a few medium cams (#.5). From anchors pop up to the summit for the view. Descent: Rap 1: From summit anchors descend to ledge on top of pitch 3. Be sure to throw rope becuase lowering it will drop it into a big ugly crack. From here, downclimb pitch 3 or rappel, your call. Rap 2: With 60 meter ropes you can easily make it to the ground from anchors on top of pitch 2.

Submitted by: mikemachineco on 2002-11-26
Views: 947
Route ID: 26949

7 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2008-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars really good

The rock on the first pitch is questionable. Take care. The right side of the block on the fourth pitch may be better.

Remember to start on the north side, not the south side as advised in a poorly written guide book.

Added: 2008-08-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: tharlow on 2008-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good climb

great tower, cool finishing pitch

Added: 2008-07-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1998-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Unique tower route

I've done this route twice it's so good.

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: the_epic_king on 2006-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: dantheriver on 2006-01-11 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Super fun route. First pitch is hard. Last pitch is sweet.

Witnessed by: Craig & rob
Added: 2006-01-11

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