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Carter/Kor Route 5.9ish - 5.8

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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medium to hand sized cams, a no stoppers needed. tons of slings if you climb it with a partner.
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The original route on Remnants. It ascends the middle of the north-west face. The system is easily viewed from the road. Climb face moves to a v-slot. Above the v-slot, belay at a fixed pin. From here, get on your hands and knees and tunnel! YeeHaaaww!!!. I was glad this tunnel was here, because I wasn't looking forward to the overhanging v-groove above. After the tunnel, 5.4 will gain a ledge, then 5.7ish face moves on the east side will gain the summit. You can climb the route is one long pitch if you are climbing alone. This route was fun! There were great anchors on top, and I was able to descend with two single rope rappels. Car to Car? about 1 to 1.5 hours.

Submitted by: stroker on 2003-01-09
Views: 1252
Route ID: 30375

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: stroker on 2003-04-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Here's descpitive beta to this fun route. PITCH ONE: Climb straight up to the chimney/slot (5.9) or start left about 20' which is 5.6 then traverse right to the base of the chimney/slot. If going the 5.6 way, protect the traverse with a orange metolius/red alien. Place a 3.5" cam at the start of the slot, then wiggle up. About 12' up the slot, place a 1" cam in a sugar crack on the left side (toward Fuita). Wiggle and face climb to a belay with a drilled angle and wedged rope. PITCH TWO: Tunnel on your hands and knees for about 15' then climb up a chimney with solid rock (5.6). Gain the pre-summit ledge then set a belay with a orange metolius/red alien, and a 3.5" friend. The 3.5" cam is about 7'above the ledge. I'm sure that people skip this belay, but why hurry and give youself rope drag? PITCH THREE: Climb up past the 3.5" cam while arching left through a few hueco/handlebars. You can loop a sling around a semi-solid handlebar if you want to. Above these, go up and right via slab moves to the summit. DESCENT: Rappel with one rope back into the tunnel then crawl back to pitch ones anchor. Afterwards take one more rappel to the ground. You can drop the whole formation with two ropes, if you want to lug up another cord. GEAR: one orange metolius or red alien (two of these if you take the 5.6 start), one 3.5 camalot, a sling or two. If you don't like runouts bring one 3" cam also. This route requires less gear than a clip-up at Rifle. BRING HELMETS!

Witnessed by: Trisha
Added: 2003-04-08