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Buffy the Buzzard Slayer - 5.10c

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Michael Crowder and Russell Sagon, 1996
Rock (Trad)
PG13
1
mixed some small gear is recommended (e.g. ball nuts, c3's, small offest slcd's)
75
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

Look for a low bolt on the left end of the alcove just left of the 'Smooth as Silk' crack. Pull a bouldery opening move to the bulge, clip the second bolt at the lip, and fire over the bulge onto the slab. Clip the third bolt and cut left to a rotten flake. Navigate the moderate but marginally protected slab above to an easy bulge ~5 meters left of the Smooth as Silk roof. End at a two bolt anchor (with one glue-in).

Descent Options:

Single rope rappel from fixed anchors.

Submitted by: gothcopter on 2008-01-07
Last Modified: 2010-07-19
Views: 814
Route ID: 91640

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Solo Solo ascent by: sf on 2010-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

RP - Roped Solo
I was attacked by fire ants after pulling the crux bulge, with the bolt halfway between myself and the ground. That was a test of focus.
I hate the summer in the deep south.

Added: 2010-07-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2008-12-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good and Dry

Did this one because it was one of the only lines dry. Had to start the route to clip the first bolt, but not too difficult. Fun awkward movement for the first crux. The second bolt is easy to pull past and there is gear in the crack. The next bolt had a little crux slab section that took a bit to figure out. The roof at the top was exciting. Took a few up and downs to figure it out.

Added: 2008-12-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: gothcopter on 2008-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Cool cruxes

The overhang cruxes are a good contrast to the rest of the route (slab). Got off route at the top and went right of the tree to the bolt on the lip of the roof. I'm guessing this bolt is for the neighboring 5.11 (On the Wings of Buzzards), because the overhang there shut me down! Ended up backtracking and going up the left side of the arete on the left end of the overhang. Looking at the topo now, it looks like maybe you're supposed to go up the left end of the overhang (i.e. the right side of the arete)?

Added: 2008-01-07