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Mokuleia Crag

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Climbing Sections:

About Mokuleia Crag:

Mokuleia crag is the largest maintained crag in Hawaii. Mokuleia Wall was recently re-bolted and in the process a few sport routes became mixed. Mokuleia boasts over 50 distinct routes, ranging from 5.7 to 5.13c, and still has room to grow. Routes feature dihedrals, cracks, thin faces, aretes and slab, and require no more than 12 draws (not counting anchor) for sport lead. The Mokuleia site also features a support box containing rugs, helmets, first aid, etc. and a stokes litter is stashed nearby for emergencies. Though a little out of date and missing information on newer routes, there is a small topo with route names and ratings inside the lid of the box, along with some friendly guidelines for climbers. Permanent anchors are set atop each route. The top of the wall is fragile, and climbers are asked not to go beyond the anchors (though there really isn't anywhere to go). Although there is no walk off, top-roping has been made easy with a system of nylon strings which run from each anchor down to a bamboo shaft at the bottom. Climbers who use the string system to set their top-rope without making a lead ascent should take care in properly attaching the string to their rope, and to resetting the string when leaving the route. With no afternoon direct sun, occasional winds and Hawaii's sudden weather changes, it's a good idea to bring a sweatshirt regardless of the weather at the bottom.

It is illegal to bring dogs into Mokuleia State park (service animals exempt). This crag resides in the state park. The police department will issue you a citation if you are caught.

Lastly, if you have any questions or need a climbing partner, contact the Hawaii routes administrator.

Nearest town or city: Mokuleia
Directions: Head out to the North Shore via H-2. Follow the signs past Wailua Town west towards Kaena Point on Farrington Highway. You'll pass Dillingham Airfield (skydive and glider port) and soon you'll come upon the YMCA Camp Erdman facility. Immediately past the camp, there will be a shoulder on the left side to park. Trail has become slightly overgrown, but its there. Somewhat strenuous hike up 20-40 min based on your fitness. Trail does become obscure in some areas, but keep eye out for flagging. Free camping is available on the beach across the street. CAUTION: there have been numerous break-ins in the past. Do not keep valuables in your car.
Latitude, Longitude: 21.57841, -158.22874
Access Issues: The land is owned by the state and free to use by all personal. Do not start a camp fire at the climbing site. If you do such someone will likely call the fire department. Additionally, doing so could start a forest fire. If you decide to climb up at the wall at night please do your best to avoid flashing lights down towards the bottom of the mountain. It is possible the fire department will be called to rescue you if you flash your headlamp down the mountain because someone may think you are signaling for help.

It is illegal to bring dogs into Mokuleia State park (service animals exempt). This crag resides in the state park. The police department will issue you a citation if you are caught.

Camping: Free
When to Climb: Autumn Spring Summer Winter
Quantity of Climbs: Week

Most Recent Photos (See all 14 photos)

No route specified No route specified No route specified Beat The Burn (5.9+)
Beat The Burn (5.9+)

Forum Discussions (8 posts)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies Climb Route Closed - Mokuleia - Sharktopus 3 Oct 29 2012, 6:09 PM
With Replies Moke description whitejw 3 Jun 11 2012, 5:03 PM
With Replies Looking to climb! phishin_leb 1 Apr 17 2012, 1:17 AM
No Replies climbing partner erinakabucky 0 Jan 16 2012, 7:00 AM
No Replies first time outside kulawhatwhat 0 Jun 08 2009, 10:59 PM
No Replies Found an orange Mad Rock shoe stpierm1 0 Nov 28 2008, 7:53 PM
With Replies Great Crag DerekKiehn 1 Aug 16 2008, 6:19 PM
With Replies Who climbs out here? USnavy 7 Sep 14 2008, 9:11 PM