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Desperate Indulgence - 5.11a

Average Rating = 3.83/5 Average Rating : 3.83 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Rock
PG13
1
there are two bolts to chains. the first bolt is 20+ feet off the deck. there is good finger sized gear down low, and you can get the smallest tcu or black alien (or both) in a small horizontal to protect the moves to the first bolt.
50
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.75/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.75/5

Description:

a pretty straightforward route. dihedral to arete to face climbing. look closely for what will turn out to be pretty good feet through the crux sequence.

Submitted by: climberchk on 2008-07-10
Views: 1005
Route ID: 4459

9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: rode8218 on 2010-04-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars cool moves!

nice short route, with some great moves, the feet are key on this one!

Added: 2010-04-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: TomSimenc on 2010-04-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Climb

I really enjoyed this climb. Definitely one of my favorites at the black cliffs. If only it continued on for another 100'

Added: 2010-04-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: DanSimenc on 2010-02-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb

Super fun moves up the arete. I think the comment about the dyno is meant for this routes neighbor: Hilti Dust. This route does not require any dynamic moves.

Added: 2010-02-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: elvislegs on 2008-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars clipping stance is key

i think clipping the second bolt is the true crux on this thing. there is a good stance but it took me way too long to figure it out. lame. fun just the same.

Added: 2008-05-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jdredfield on 2007-06-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars last year

i love this climb. i'm going out to buy a stopper so i can lead it.

Added: 2007-06-21

... Read all 9 ascent notes